(Author: Nancy Hendryx) Peru, Day 2.
We were all out of bed by 5:30 this morning and on our way back to the Lima airport by 6:00. Peru is such a mountainous country that bus and car travel (and even train travel) is largely impractical. To get from one city to another, most people fly. There are hourly flights from Lima to Cusco, possibly more often. The flight is short – only 55 minutes.
Our new guide, Javier, and new driver, Wilfredo, met us at the Cusco airport. We found a quiet spot at the airport and packed smaller bags for our two nights outside of Cusco in the Sacred Valley & Machu Picchu, then Javier drove to the hotel we will be staying at on our return to Cusco (3 nights), and dropped our suitcases off. From there we drove up, up, up, and out of Cusco and through the highest point of our trip, about 12,000 feet if I remember correctly. We did make one stop to buy bottled water, as everyone has impressed upon us the need to stay well hydrated in order to avoid altitude illnesses.
We drove through the beautiful, terraced hillsides and saw many different animals: llamas, vicunas, cattle, horses, chickens, dogs, pigs, and guinea pigs. Apparently, cattle, horses, chickens, and pigs were brought to the Americas by the Spaniards, and the only native animals were the camelids – llama-like animals, guinea pigs, pumas…. And that the animals most sacred to the Incas were condors, snakes, and couguars .
Three days a week the town of Pisaq opens its vast market – most of which is an artisans´ market that caters to tourists. Sunday is one of those days, and we spent an hour intensively shopping for jewelry, textiles, etc. Personally, I spent more than what I suspect is the average annual salary in Cusco on weavings. The last time I was in Peru (three years ago) I had regretted not buying more, and I was not going to make the same mistake this time. So I went a little crazy, and ended up buying nearly everything from the same vendor, who swore that her husband had designed and made everything in her stall. I´m not sure I believe her, but by the time I finished shopping we were best friends. Ana Cruz. Her daughter was playing with another little girl underneath the tables that held the wares. Dogs trotted through the market underneath the tables, too, seemingly without a care in the world. The markets are interesting, exciting places and a rich feast of all of the senses.
We stopped for lunch at a magnificent old villa along the Urubamba River. There was a buffet with everything imaginable, and beautiful gardens that stretched down to the bank of the river, where the kids played at being monkeys by climbing out onto a large branch of a much larger tree above the swiftly-moving river. We were also hounded (pun intended) by a big black dog that simply would not tire of playing catch. There was a nice breeze – the weather was simply perfect this afternoon.
I asked the guide about some red bags, balloons, and banners I had observed at random houses along the way: “Are those, by any chance, chicherias?” Well, yes, they were. I asked if we might stop at one of them, and he said that he knew a good place that also had guinea pigs. Great! I was very pleased at his flexibility and willingness to accommodate us. A chicheria is a local cultural phenomenon. It is a social center that one could liken to a pub. It is a place where ¨chicha¨ is produced. Chicha is a drink made from ground corn steeped in boiling water that is allowed to ferment, and it turns into a kind of very weak beer over the course of two days. It is an ancient drink of the Andes, and is served in gigantic drinking glasses. It is also produced in two styles: plain, and mixed with pureed fruit.
In the courtyard of the chicheria were numerous little game tables with one drawer, about 16 inches by 20 inches with tallish sides and a tall back. Prominently in the center of each table was brass frog with an open mouth, and there were some holes on the top and back of the tables. The drawer was full of big brass ¨coins¨ and partitions with point values. The idea was to stand about six feet from the table and try to toss the coins into the frog´s mouth to get the most points. You could also get points for tossing them into any of the holes. After you finish tossing your coins, you have to open the drawer to see how many points you earned by tallying the point values of each partitioned receptacle.
We all, of course, tried our hand at it. I was definitely the worst, and my vote is for Robin as the best. Everyone else was pretty good, too. But no one got a coin into a frog´s mouth.
There was also a big room (dirt floor) full of guinea pigs. Those pigs were not going to be anyone´s pets, however. They were surely destined to be dinner for some frog-pong-playing chicha drinkers!
We got back into the van and drove to our next destination: Ollantaytambo, the site of some spectacular Incan ruins. We walked up 300 very tall steps and had a commanding view of the Urubamba River valley and the town of Ollantaytambo. We took a close look at the masterful stone masonry of the Inca and marvelled at the seeming impossibility of moving some enormous stones from a rock quarry located at the top of a neighboring peak, down that mountain, and up the one we were standing atop. It is just unimaginable without the use of massive hydraulic equipment. Impressive is an understatement.
We are spending the night at a beautiful little resort with gorgeous blooming grounds that is in sight of the ruins we visited. We walked into town in search of sustenance, and all had satisfactory experiences. Mr. B. and I happened upon a restaurant with a wealth of vegetarian options that was founded two years ago by a retired Englishwoman to fund projects that benefit children in the Urubamba Valley. The kids went to a nice Peruvian restaurant where they were serenaded with music typical of the Andes.
It is now about 9:00 p.m. and I suspect that most of the kids are already in bed. We have all been a bit short of sleep of late, and being at a high altitude is especially tiring. We have been pushing water and drinking coca tea (tea made from coca leaves, which helps with altitude adjustment), and no one has complained of even a headache, so that is very good news.
Tomorrow, we visit Machu Picchu!